We bought passes to the ship's "sun-deck" for the trip. The sun doesn't shine here, literally. So we should have known before we expected luxury, that it would less than perfect. But this outside area where we could actually breathe and move around was our saving grace. It was just an open space with plastic chairs and stools where we sat and watched the scenery roll by as the boat cruised.
We spent a lot of our time off of our boat- walking around temples or cruising on other boats that were more mobile. The scenery was gorgeous - the mountains were enormous and towered over the river on both sides. The weather was foggy and rainy, no surprise again, which was a shame but it added a very "native" feeling to the whole trip- typical Asia weather.
The people here love to take pictures- with only one person in each picture. It was a struggle at every stop and every beautiful scene to take pictures of our group or pictures of the scenery because they were going crazy with their solo shots. Just a cultural norm I'm learning.
There was some drama on our boat on the last night. An Asian lady was apparently deemed "crazy" by someone else on the boat and so the captain had asked her to leave. She had already purchased a ticket so she was refusing to get off the boat. Everyone on the boat was crowded around this lady who was sitting on her luggage with her arms crossed and they were all fighting and yelling and arguing. It was an event! After about two hours of arguing, I guess this lady either got off our boat or was allowed to stay on, because we finally left shore. The way the people here approach problems in public is so different. Everyone is in everyone's business and there is no privacy about a matter.
Overall, our trip was incredible. It was one of those trips we'll talk about forever. I loved traveling with people who are so laid back. I love that in the midst of these less than par accommodations, we were right at home and at ease. The high maintenance people who demand luxury in life miss out on some amazing things in this world- they can say they don't care, that they're satisfied with their nice couch and nice TV, but I doubt any of them would get to the end of their life and say they wish they'd spent more time in their house on their nice couch, and less time experiencing new adventures in this world. I'm thankful I never learned to expect luxury or to demand it. The experience is all about what you make of it. And we definitely made it great.

You are so brave.
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